THE COMPLETE SAKE GUIDE

Sake is often described as having a clean and refreshing finish. The flavour is unmistakable, but within that there's quite a range — as much variation as there is between whiskies or wines. Sake has a mild, smooth, and slightly sweet flavour with a delicate aroma. When you take a sip of sake, you may notice a subtle rice flavour complemented by floral or fruity notes. Others may have a more earthy or nutty taste. The sweetness of sake can range from very dry to mildly sweet. 

This all depends on the type of sake and how it was brewed; the type of rice, water, yeast, and koji used, as well as the production methods and aging techniques employed. More on that later. Like wine and fortified wine, sake typically has an alcohol content ranging from 12% to 20%. 

Sake is also a useful ingredient for cooking. Chefs employ a little splash of sake, together with a soy sauce and mirin, for a savoury umami flavour, excellent with fish and meat. It's a great way to bring a meaty depth to fried vegetables. 

Sake and nihonshu are essentially two names for the same thing, but while the word "sake" is used in the West, the correct term would be nihonshu. In Japanese, sake is the general word for all alcoholic drinks and booze, while nihonshu specifically refers to the rice wine. This guide might more appropriately be called 'The Complete Guide to Nihonshu', but most would accept the word has taken on a different meaning in English (goodness knows the Japanese use a lot of English words differently to how native speakers would). It is fine to use the two terms interchangeably.  

Then there's shochu. Written as 焼酎 and pronounced with a long vowel sound on the first syllable. Typically stronger and a little rough around the edges compared to sake, shochu is a distilled spirit fermented from a variety (and often a combination) of base ingredients, including rice but also barley, potato, sweet potato, and more. It has a much stronger alcohol content than sake, around 25-30% ABV, if not as strong as vodka. Shochu can be consumed neat, on the rocks, or mixed with other beverages.

The history of sake dates back to the 3rd century. Basic processes were first introduced to Japan via ancient China. Ancient sake was made using a crude process: rice was steamed, mixed with koji and water in a fermentation vessel, and left to ferment for several weeks.  Just as in Europe, monks would play significant role in the production of alcohol in ancient Japan. During the Nara period (710-794 AD), sake production became more widespread, with the government actively promoting the use of sake in religious ceremonies and festivals. Sake also became an important commodity for trade, with different regions of Japan developing their own unique styles of sake production. In the Heian period (794-1185 AD), sake production became more sophisticated, with the introduction of new brewing techniques and more focus on refined ingredients, moving things forward in terms of clarity and complexity.

During the Edo period (1603-1868 AD), sake started to became a popular drink among the common folk. Many small breweries began popping up throughout the country. However, Japan also entered the Sakoku era in 1633. Also known as Japan's "closed period," Sakoku was a policy of isolationist foreign policy adopted by the Tokugawa shogunate until 1853. During this time, Japan restricted its contact and trade with foreign countries, allowing only a limited number of Dutch and Chinese traders in Nagasaki under strict supervision. Portuguese and Dutch missionaries and merchants would undoubtedly have sampled the drink on their travels.

The Edo Period also saw the introduction of multiple-stage fermentation processes. Before this period, sake was produced in a single fermentation process that often resulted in inconsistent quality. With this, brewers were able to refine their product. The government established the Sake Examination Office, testing and evaluating the quality of sake, and even providing certification to those that met the government's standards.

With the Meiji Restoration in the late 19th century, Japan opened up once more to the outside world and sake began to be export in modest quantities to Europe and America. The first recorded shipment of sake to Europe was made in 1876, and it became somewhat fashionable among upper-class European drinkers (along with a craze for ukiyo-e woodblock prints and other Japanese artifacts). Sake production has undergone significant changes since the Meiji Era (more or less Japan's Industrial Revolution) due to advancements in technology and changes in production. Today, it's a major fixture in global drinking culture.

Sake varieties broadly fall into two categories. Futsu-shu, also known as ordinary sake or table sake (futsu meaning regular or standard) is made with rice that has been polished to at least 70% of its original size. It is often brewed with added alcohol and other ingredients to enhance its profile and is typically less expensive than other types of sake. It's the Japanese equivalent of a table wine and accounts for almost 60% of sake production. It is also the most commonly produced and consumed type of sake, accounting for around 80% of all sake produced. 

By contrast, Tokutei Meisho-shu is premium or 'special designated' sake, made according to strict regulations and quality standards set by the Japanese government. For example, it must be made using rice that has been polished to at least a certain percentage and using only specific types of yeast and koji mold. This sake tends to be served more on formal occasions and can be quite expensive due to the high quality of the ingredients and production methods used. There are several sub-categories of Tokutei Meisho-shu, including Junmai-shu, Honjozo-shu, Ginjo-shu, and Daiginjo-shu, each with their own specific requirements and characteristics. 

In recent years, the world of Japanese rice wine has seen a number of trends that reflect changing consumer preferences. One notable trend has been an increased interest in premium sakes, such as ginjo and daiginjo. These sakes are highly prized for their delicate flavours and aromas, which are often compared to those of fine wines.

There has been a growing interest in innovative and experimental sakes in recent years, as brewers seek to appeal to new and diverse audiences. This has led to the development of a wide range of flavoured and untraditional sakes, such as sparkling sake, sakes brewed with fruits and herbs, and even low-alcohol and non-alcoholic sakes. Overall, these trends reflect a dynamic and evolving industry, as brewers seek to balance tradition and innovation in the world of Japanese rice wine. That said, there has also been a renewed focus on eschewing the big manufacturers in favour of smaller regional  sake producers, with locally sourced ingredients and brewed using traditional methods. These sakes are highly valued by enthusiasts for their unique and distinctive flavours, reflect the terroir of each individual brewery.

Sake is much more than just a drink —  it's a cultural icon, a symbol of tradition and craftsmanship, and a beverage that is enjoyed around the world. Whether you prefer a smooth and refined ginjo sake, a rich and complex daiginjo, or a refreshing and bubbly sparkling sake, there's no denying the incredible variety and diversity of this beloved beverage. So whether you're a seasoned sake enthusiast or a newcomer to the world of rice wine, there's never been a better time to explore all that the delightful liquid has to offer. From local and regional sakes to innovative and experimental brews, there's something out there for every palate and every occasion.